Soapmaking 101

LDS Natural Family Living


Basic Soap Making

(c) Marie Greene

Necessary Supplies:

  • Heavy chemical gloves
  • Goggles
  • Long sleeved shirt, long pants
  • Large supply of vinegar nearby (in case of accident)
  • Large Pyrex measuring cup
  • Large enamel or stainless steel pot
  • Sturdy plastic mixing spoon
  • Sturdy wooden mixing spoon
  • Accurate scale
  • Candy thermometer (only to be used for soap making)
  • Newspapers to cover counter tops

PREPARING YOUR MOLDS:

First of all, you can use anything for a mold. As long as it is not aluminum or tin, it can probably be used. Some people use a shoebox lined with waxed paper, candy molds, Rubbermaid containers, etc... Be creative! Just try to use items that are flexible and will allow for easy removal of the soap. In order to prepare your mold, be certain that is fully cleaned and then lightly grease bottom and sides with canola oil. If you are pouring the soap into a lined container, no greasing will be necessary.

MAKING SOAP:

  • Cover work area with newspapers to protect counter tops from lye granules. Set out all ingredients and supplies.
  • Mixing the lye: Measure out the appropriate quantity of distilled water into the pyrex measuring cup. Place cup in stainless steel sink. Weigh out the lye as accurately as possible (remember that whatever item you use to pour the lye into should not be used for food from that point on). Be sure that your work area is well ventilated, and that you are properly covered with clothing, gloves and goggles. Slowly pour the lye crystals into the pre-measured water, quickly stirring at all times until lye is dissolved. (Be prepared, as the lye fumes are quite potent and will irritate your lungs. Proper ventilation is necessary). Leave in sink to cool to 105 degrees.
  • CAUTIONS: First of all, lye is a highly caustic chemical. If any piece of it lands on your skin, it will burn you. If a single grain lands on your counter top, it will leave its mark permanently. Lye is an extremely dangerous substance and MUST be kept far from the access of children and pets. Second of all, when the lye hits the water it will begin heating up immediately. It will reach well over 200 degrees as it is achieving its chemical reaction with the water. For this reason, you must use a safe, sturdy container for mixing the lye/water. A canning jar will not be sufficient. You will need something that is heat/cold resistant and can easily adjust to instant temperature changes. Pyrex glass measuring cups work perfectly for this. Last of all, lye will react with metals like aluminum and tin, so avoid such materials when working with lye. Lye will eat a hole right through any aluminum or tin container.

  • While lye is cooling, place large pot on stove top and begin measuring oils into the pot, over low heat. Be sure to accurately weigh all oils before adding to the pot. When shortening and coconut oil are dissolved and the mixture is clear, remove from heat. Allow to cool to 105 degrees.
  • When both mixtures are at approximately 95-105 degrees, it is time to mix. It is very important that there is no more than a five-degree difference between the mixtures (for best soap results). While wearing gloves, slowly pour the lye water into the oil mixture, stirring quickly and evenly throughout. Place the lye/water container into a sink of soapy water to soak. Be sure not to drip the lye water on anything!!
  • Continue stirring in a circular motion- not too fast, not too slow until mixture begins to thicken to the consistency of white gravy. (This can take anywhere from two minutes to two hours, sometimes longer). When mixture is thick enough to leave a "trace" on the top when a spoonful is drizzled over, it is ready for additives.
  • At this point, you may stir in ground oats (not the instant kind), spices for coloring, and fragrance or essential oil. When additives are completely blended, pour into prepared molds. Wrap with wool blankets (or anything warm), and place in a draft free place for 12-24 hours. (The oven is a perfect spot for this, but be sure to leave a note on the oven door that reminds you not to turn it on!)

UNMOLDING & CUTTING:

When your soap has been in the mold for 12-24 hours and is firm to the touch, it is time to un-mold. There are about a million ways to get the soap out of the mold, and you will have to experiment based on which type of mold you have chosen to use. If you have extreme difficulty removing your soap, place the entire container in the freezer for several hours and then try removing again. Cut your bars into desired sizes and place on wooden racks or brown paper sacks to dry (also called "curing") for 2-4 weeks before using the soap. At that time, your soap may be wrapped and put away for storage until needed.

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Basic Soap Recipe 

48 oz. all vegetable shortening
21 oz. canola oil
18 oz. coconut oil (can be found at the health food store)
28 oz. cold water
12 oz. Red Devil Lye (can be found at most grocery stores, but you may have to ask because it's a very dangerous substance and they sometimes put it up out of reach)